The Detroit Post
Tuesday, 19 October, 2021

Rust Fastest Way To Destroy Stone Wall

Paul Gonzalez
• Friday, 08 January, 2021
• 7 min read

Now I want to expand the base, so I need to tear down some walls inside but that's proving impossible as every tool breaks in ten hits and doesn't even put a dent in the 500 HP of the wall. I thought the hammer has some sort of “delete” function but this is clearly not the case.



Some weapon classes deal greater damage to the soft side of the wall. The strong side has dark outlines of bricks, while the soft side is light gray.

Salvaged Ice pick: 0.13dmg (65 pickaxes) 60 hits per tool Pickaxe: 0.12dmg (74 pickaxes) 57 hits per tool Salvaged Axe: 0.09dmg (93 axes) 60 hits per tool Stone Pickaxe: 0.06dmg (379 pickaxes) 22 hits per tool Salvaged Hammer: 0.06dmg (120 hammers) 70 hits per tool Hatchet: 0.05dmg (152 hatchets) 66 hits per tool Jackhammer: 0.05dmg (136 jackhammers) 74 hits per tool Stone Hatchet: 0.03dmg (642 hatchets) 26 hits per tool Rock: 0.02dmg (782 rocks) 32 hits per tool Torch: 0.01dmg (2272 torches) 22 hits per tool Torch(lit): 0.01dmg (8334 torches) 6 hits per tool Notes:Explosive rounds inflict nearly the same damage to the weak side as the strong side of walls at 1.1x.

The flamethrower starts a fire after a burst of 13 fuel, but it doesn't inflict damage to stone walls. Both stone square and triangle foundations share the same characteristics as the stonewall.

The weak side of the foundations are the light gray floor, while the vertical faces that show the outline of brick are the strong faces. Stone door frames share the same characteristics as the stonewall.

So destroying a stone door frame that held an armored door will cost the defender more to replace, compared to just destroying one of their stone walls. Stone windows share the same characteristics as the stonewall.

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Wooden window bars are weaker than the stone window, but they are awkward to destroy. If a stone window has wooden window bars then consider using a flamethrower to get through the window bars. Both stone square and triangle floors share the same characteristics as the stonewall.

Not to be confused with foundations, the floor building entity is often a ceiling. So if you were directly underneath a loot room which had a stone floor, you could break through upwards for 10x melee damage, or 2x firearm damage. Both stonewall and floor frames share the characteristics as the stonewall with the exception that neither seem to have weak faces.

Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts View Entire Discussion (12 Comments)The largest community for the game RUST.

Scalawag Pathfinder 434 805 posts It'll take you 5 bows, 200 arrows and well over an hour of shooting, but if you're a little handy with in-game key toggles and a simple mouse macro, it's not so bad, just watch a movie and get your base back.

If you do this with 5 people, all 5 bows each, all 200 arrows each, you can break 5 walls of any base in under 2 hours (providing its stone) or one wall in 15-20 minutes, sounds pretty cheap to me. Stone Wall • Rust Labs Essential for any serious base.

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Due to its cheap cost, this wall is great for larger bases. Although resistant to fire, it can easily be pickaxed on the weak side.

1If you ever need to soft-pick a stone tile, it's actually cheaper to build a repair bench, 3x pickaxes, and do 6x repairs.7x Pickaxe (100w + 125 m) = 700w + 875m1x Repair Bench (125 m) + 3x Pickaxe (100w + 125 m) + 6x Repair (20w + 25 m) = 420w + 650 m 0 These walls can easily be soft-side pickaxed with 7 metal pickaxes Pickaxe If you are able to hit stone walls on the soft-side through a window using a spear then you can easily raid someone's window floor and potentially go deep.

Wooden Spear Be careful with your wall placements in your base as you could be easily soft-side pickaxe raided yourself Stone Floor • Rust Labs The stone flooring is a tier 2 building material that is completely immune to fire damage and can keep off most melee damage.

Depending upon the configuration of the item in question, removing rust can be a tedious process that requires lots of elbow grease. In combination with a screwdriver, pliers, or a wrench, cutting oil can be a favorable ally.

If you plan to use heat to remove a fastener, be sure to first wipe off any lubricant or cutting oil you may have applied because the combination can cause a fire. A little (or a lot) of elbow grease: Sandpaper, sanding tape, flexible sanding sponges, steel wool, and nylon scouring pads all work well and can be especially useful when working on tubing or twisted and curved material.

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A bit of fine finishing with sandpaper or steel wool helps remove any residue that may remain. Using chemical removers: Some rust simply can’t be sanded or scraped without damaging the fixture.

Rust -removal products containing gelled phosphoric acid, such as Naval Jelly, work best. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and safety goggles, and have plenty of fresh ventilation when you’re working with chemical rust removers.

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