The Detroit Post
Saturday, 16 October, 2021

Rust Fastest Way To Break Wood Floor

Ellen Grant
• Thursday, 24 December, 2020
• 8 min read

Wooden walls have a weak face(often called the inside wall) which is light brown and flat, while the strong side has tree bark. The sides of the wooden wall are as strong as the front.


You have to be very close to the underside of a wooden ceiling and aim for the middle to inflict 10x damage with tools/melee weapons. Stability doesn't seem to have a bearing on damage inflicted.

* Inflicts splash damage to building parts.! Can explode a moment after throwing/placing.^ Damage caused by started fires is included in the test.

Results may vary.~ Placement can be blocked by a tool cupboard.# Causes a horrific amount of fire that spreads. F1 Grenade notes:F1 Grenades inflict almost no damage to buildings, even to twig. The flamethrower starts a fire after a burst of 13 fuel.

Firing an entire tank of 100 fuel, and reloading to quickly fire 86 more fuel should destroy a wooden wall. It's probably wise to take more low grade fuel than needed though.

Note:Fire Arrows might spark a fire which damages furniture and players, but not building parts. Notes:Explosive 5.56 rifle ammunition deals approximately 1.2x damage to the weak side of wooden walls, and can start fires.

Notes:Incendiary 5.56 rifle ammunition deals approximately 1.1x damage to the weak side of wooden walls, and can start fires. The weak side of the foundations are the light brown floor, while the support legs and underside that has wooden beam in the middle are the strong faces. Wooden door frames share the same characteristics as the wooden wall.

So destroying a wooden door frame that held a sheet metal door will cost the defender more to replace, compared to just destroying one of their wooden walls. Wooden windows share the same characteristics as the wooden wall. Not to be confused with foundations, the floor building entity is often a ceiling.

So if you were directly underneath a loot room which had a wooden floor, you could break through upwards for 10x melee damage, or 2x firearm damage. Although the weak face is only vulnerable at the middle, so you have to strike the middle of the beam. Both wooden wall and floor frames share the characteristics as the wooden wall with the exception that neither seem to have weak faces.

Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts I use bow arrow and nothing happens I keep shooting it stays at 250 health.

A central place for discussion, media, news and more. Wooden Floor • Rust Labs A floor, or a ceiling, depending on where you're standing.

This type of floor has been upgraded with a hammer. This block may only be built on top of a wall, doorway, window, wall frame, stairs L Shape, U shaped stairs or half wall.

Sheet metal doors share the same hit points and defense bonuses as the double sheet metal door and ladder hatch. They are invulnerable to fire damage, strong against hatchets, but weaker against heavy impacts like explosives, rocks, maces, and clubs compared to other items and building parts. An alternative method to getting through a sheet metal door would be to find a weaker way in, like destroying the door frame if it's wooden.

If there's no lock on the door then you can open it and pick it up by holding the use button. Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links, meaning, if you click through and make a purchase we may earn a commission.

I don’t know about you but my heart skips a beat when I come across reclaimed wood, rusty metal, and forged iron. There’s something to be said about pieces that speak their history through their old age and rusty patina, and it’s one of the reasons I’m so drawn to mountain homes and log cabins.

I have to tell ya, making metal rust in fast-forward was even more fun than I anticipated. I originally came across this post on how to make metal rust and planned to follow it to a tee, but then I became all impatient and excited and just did my own thing.

After I placed my horseshoe in the container I poured some white distilled vinegar on top. I didn’t measure but I poured just enough so that it covered the horseshoe and then I sorta swished it around on top.

At this point, you’ll want to add peroxide on top of your metal objects. I then sprinkled …err dumped… a bunch of salt on my horseshoe and the rusty color started to come out even more.

Then I called Eric over because I was all excited to show him, but I wanted more bubbles and fizz, so I poured a bit more hydrogen peroxide on top. After a few minutes, I swished the horseshoe around in the solution to sort of rinse off the salt and then patted it dry with a paper towel.

You’ll want to add a clear sealer to prevent the rusty patina from flaking off and staining anything they touch. When I did seal them I just used some leftover Spar Urethane and a foam brush, but you can use any clear sealer and may prefer a spray-on kind.

After receiving a lot of comments and emails about this not working on certain objects I wanted to add that not all metals will rust. I believe it has to have iron in it in order to rust, and if it’s galvanized, stainless steel or some other type of metal that doesn’t corrode then this process won’t work.

I learned this the hard way by trying to rust some galvanized buckets I had on hand and read up about it here. If you watch the video at the top of this post you’ll see the difference in the spray vs. dunk method.

Basically, the spray method will allow more of the contrast of the original metal to show through and it is easier to work in layers and add more rust if you want.

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