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Just opened up my 41 ford v8 and am concerned about the amount of rust in the water jacket. It's a low mile car that has been stored for a long time without water in it.
I also noticed what looked like rust on the cam lobes, but It may be sludge. My water jackets were rusty as well on my Hudson 308 motor...used coat hangers and the shop vac for the water passages then a wire brush for everything else ... Lots of good info on here from CLR and vinegar to the molasses trick ...good luck ...nice Motor too.
I'd either run it as is, or tear it all the way down (keeping all bearings in the proper order) and clean the heck out of that thing. To clean the block, first go through the usual hot tank, but after its all dried out, sandblast the water jackets thoroughly.
I guess another way to ask is, I had a late model engine that had rusty water jackets, and they were constant problems. Even after antifreeze, I put several water pumps and head gaskets, and I eventually tossed the van.
(Ford 3.0) Will the Flathead continue to rust once its started, and be a problem, or does the block not flake out as bad again. I have the car down to the frame now, and am on the bubble weather to swap to something else in light of the rust situation.
Oh, and guys like to know who they're talking to, so you'll get a better response if your profile page is filled out. As far as a reason to toss it, not really, I already bought the 5 speed, and geared the rear for the flat tie.
Been driving wore out sloppy cars from the beginning, so I can deal with it most of the time. If you can clean that rust out somehow it won't ever be that bad again in our lifetime (if you use proper coolant).
HY you don't say where you are from but here in Orange County Local I use a company call Strip Clean in Garden Grove. I have a couple of low mileage Flathead ('50 Ford and '51 Mercury) out of cars that were obviously maintained properly, and their insides were scale free after almost 70 years.
Now casting sand and miscellaneous debris in the water jackets is another matter. Just opened up my 41 ford v8 and am concerned about the amount of rust in the water jacket.
It's a low mile car that has been stored for a long time without water in it. If it is low mileage and sounded great while it was running before you tore it down, I would put it back together and do a citric acid flush.
Citric acid (a key ingredient of Gunk Super Radiator Flush, In C2124C) removes rust but is safe on iron, brass, and aluminum and I bought citric acid (1 kg bag) from a local wine supply store. I've used in my own engine (ran acid solution for few days) and the internal passages look freshly cast I did a write up for my car club: Cooling System.
Start with any tool you can to poke, scrape, brush, etc going through any water jacket hole you can find. Also, thorough wire brush the block decks and check for cracks between valves and cylinders.
Cracks between coolant holes and head bolt threads are OK. Good luck! Remove the studs scrape, poke, power wash and chemicals and repeat wash. Clean threads and re assembly.
Make sure you pull the frost plugs and clean out all the rust, scale and casting sand around the bottom of the cylinders. None visible, unless they don't look like the typical freeze plugs.
I have some fine stainless mesh ill try and fab up to fit in the upper hose. What worked for me was running a hose into the head outlet, then I had a soft copper tube I could into the water jackets from the pump holes.
Look over this official scientific test over on Ford Barn before you work up a sweat and get your hands dirty: My only worry would be that the liquidation of the rust might well free up lime, sand, mouse nests, etc. I would consider either improvised filters in the hoses or perhaps just reverse flushing the radiator in case of that.
If you do have lime deposits from your local water, vinegar might be a useful followup to eat them. Doing this on a runner will also make the Evans more effective, or at least quicker, as the heat will considerably speed up its process.
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Description Opaque, thick paste with matte, rust like finish. Perfect for creating rusty textures and adding dimension, great for steampunk, grunge and masculine projects.
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I don't like cutting, drilling, bending, sanding, fixing, welding or screwing into metal. You see, I'm a “wood guy”--and except for nails--iron, steel and aluminum remain a mystery to me.
That's why it comes as a pleasant surprise to discover that painting most metals is no big deal. Your project will look better, withstand more punishment and you won't be repainting again in two or three years, as you would with cheap paint.
But since they're frequently exposed to water, give them a coat of metal primer before painting. If you can't wait, use lacquer thinner to remove surface oils.
That glassy-smooth surface on appliances, metal kitchen cabinets and office furniture was probably applied by a process called electroplating. The object is given an electrical charge, then a special paint is sprayed onto the surface.
You can bring metal objects to an electroplating shop for recoating or contact an “in-your-own-home” electroplated. But metal siding does fade with time, as do people's color preferences.
First, power wash your siding, overhangs, downspouts and gutters to remove dirt, grime and powdery chalk. Rent a power washer ($45 a day) that can produce 1,200 psi and has a detergent additive feature.
Always start at the top and work down, and let the siding dry for two days before painting. You'll pay $20 to $30 a gallon for good paint, but it's worth it compared to the labor involved with repainting again in a few years.
Remember: * Always shut off your radiator first, or the paint will dry too fast, leaving brush marks and an uneven look. * Sand or wire brush any flaking paint, then feather chips with sandpaper to blend the edges.
Avoid flat sheets; they're hard to wash. * If your radiators “sweat,” apply a primer coat before painting. TFS, 7168 123rd Circle N., Largo, FL 34643; 813-442-8611) available at most professional paint centers.
Apply a liquid rust remover (Photo 2) to reach deep recesses, then rinse. These primers, available from most professional paint stores, absorb and encapsulate lingering rust and prevent it from spreading.
Remember: * Special metal, or direct-to- rust, primers must dry thoroughly before being painted over, often 48 hours or longer. * High-gloss, oil-based enamel paints are best for railings; they last longer and wash clean easier.
When lead paint is sanded, scraped or wire brushed, the chips and dust can create real health and disposal hazards. If you suspect a metal surface is covered with lead paint, contract your local Environment Protection Agency or health department.