Plan to spend about $100 on supplies like sandpaper, primer, masking tape and poly sheeting, a tack rag, polishing compound and touch-up paint and clear coat. Use either of these online resources to find instructions on how to locate your paint code: automotivetouchup.com or duplicolor.com.
Buy automotive touch-up paint in pints and quarts to use in a spray gun, in aerosol cans, or in roller ball applicators. Pro-tip: Even if you know how to use a spray gun, mixing automotive paint with a reducer to match the temperature and humidity conditions can be mighty tricky.
Instead, buy aerosol cans for larger repairs and roller ball applicators to fix scratches. Buy 40-, 600- and 1,000-grit sandpaper, a sanding block, grease and wax remover, poly sheeting, painter's tape, a tack rag and a microfiber cloth.
Tape the leading edge of poly sheeting a few feet away from the repair so you'll have room to blend the touch-up paint into the good areas. If the rust has created pits in the metal, you can fill them now with body filler or wait until the epoxy primer dries and apply multiple coats of filler primer.
Wipe the area with a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining dust or lint. Spray the filler primer in heavier coats to cover the entire repair area.
Move the can away from the surface slightly and blend it into the surrounding painted area. Pro-tip: Self-etching epoxy primer provides a strong bond to bare metal, so use it as your first coat.
Wait a full hour for the epoxy to dry to the touch (longer if it's humid outside). Switch to wet 1,000-grit sandpaper to final-sand the entire repair, including the blended areas.
Start at the bottom of the repair and apply the color coat in left-to-right rows, overlapping each pass by about one-third. Pro-tip: Don't sand the base coat (especially metallic colors) unless you've created sags.
Gradually work the clear coat into the surrounding painted areas to achieve a smooth blend line. Note: This is the hardest part because all clear coats run easily and that will ruin the look of your paint job.
If you create a run in the clear coat, you'll have to let it dry for at least 48 hours before attempting to fix it with fine-grit sandpaper and polishing compound. So practice spraying on a scrap piece of cardboard to get a feel for the nozzle and the speed of application.
Modular Vehicles have finally been added to Rust, but where can you find them and, more importantly, how do you build them? Alongside the addition of Modular Vehicles, the road topography in Rust has been updated to make driving a lot smoother.
It’s still no Fora Horizon 4, but it’ll be a damn sight easier to maneuver your new car around. You’ll be able to modify your new vehicle to suit your needs and play style by adding new functions such as better storage or passenger capacity, as well as customize them and upgrade the engine.
The Rusty chassis of different types of vehicles can be found at the roadside in Rust, and you’ll be able to identify them by all the smoke and sparks flying out of them. To get them moving, you can use low-grade fuel to run Modular Vehicles or push them yourself but be warned: if a car rolls back and hits you, you’re going to have a bad time.
You’ll also be able to craft low, medium and high-quality variants of each component which will influence its effectiveness and durability. You’ll need a significant amount of scrap to blueprint and craft the parts, so loot whatever you can.
Putting in higher grade parts will increase its max power, fuel efficiency and acceleration, which will make a big difference. Build a car lift To repair the engine and add modules to your vehicle, you can use your Hammer to smash in the new parts.
You can also craft a metal key for 15 scraps to make sure no unauthorized players drive your car, which is handy. If you’d like to see a visual guide to the new modular vehicles, check out this video from TheMeemishGamer.
Rust repair isn’t hard, but it is time-consuming (mostly waiting for primer and paint to dry between steps). Plan to spend about $100 on supplies like sandpaper, primer, masking tape and poly sheeting, a tack rag, polishing compound, touch-up paint and clear coat.
Even if you know how to use a spray gun, mixing automotive paint with a reducer to match the temperature and humidity conditions can be mighty tricky. Instead, buy aerosol cans for larger repairs and roller ball applicators to fix scratches.
Or, you can buy automotive paint locally from a professional auto body supplier. Next, buy 40-, 600- and 1,000-grit sandpaper, a sanding block, grease and wax remover, poly sheeting, painter’s tape, a tack rag and a microfiber cloth.
I drive a 1985 VW Golf (diesel), and it's in pretty good condition for being 21 years old. These spots are not only an eyesore, but they are sure to spread in the salty Nebraska winters.
The car is kind of a beater, so I wasn't too concerned with making it look perfect. My original plan was to take the entire fender off, but after inspecting it, that would be too much of a hassle and would require me to disassemble a lot of the front of the car.
I unscrewed the plastic thing protecting the wheel well and set it off to the side. That gave me wonderful access to see up behind the sheet metal on the car.
I was originally going to pound out the dent on the upper part of the fender, but space was tight and I couldn't easily do it. It worked really well for taking off the thick layers of primer and paint.
I also used that wheel for removing all the light rust that hadn't pitted the metal. I had my hood open to help access some rust, so I got a tarp to cover up the engine.
I went to NAPA auto parts to find some primer and paint. Then I got a 400 grit wet sandpaper and sanded the areas, then wiped clean.
Paint spray can get everywhere because it gets suspended in the air and blown around and settles somewhere. When applying paint, it is important to spray thin coats and keep it even.
I had to spray the paint on even thinner, because it really wanted to run and sag. The paint turned out pretty well, and it just looked like little patches over the old rust.
After the paint had cured a good 48 hours, I washed and waxed the car to bring back the shine. As stated in an article on AdvanceAutoParts.com, rust forms when oxygen interacts with ferrous metal molecules.
Major surface rust problem can give someone a headache, but it can be remedied with a do-it-yourself. An article on AdvanceAutoParts.com offers a way to get rid of major rust problem to save metal parts from total ruin.
Sanding through paint and primer requires covering the rest of a car to prevent accumulation of very small dust particles. Next, remove surface rust using a grinder with a sanding wheel.
Do not forget to apply just the right amount of pressure to avoid damaging the car panel or part. Remember, rust problems that cannot be fixed by a DIY project should be handled by a (paint and body work) repair shop like Five Star Autoplay.
Our ASE-certified technicians will weld new metal onto the corroded areas of your vehicle and ensure that it’s able to pass the NH state inspection.