Food & Hunger is a key part to Rust's survival aspects of the game. It works by having a bar displayed on the screen showing the amount of hunger you have, which maxes out at 500, and drops slowly.
Players can continually eat food to keep the character at a safe level of hunger. Players can wear armor, or stay near a lit Camp Fire to keep safe from the cold at night and keep their hunger at safer levels.
Here is a chart which contains information on the types of foods that can be found within Rust and the status changes that will occur when they are eaten. Face punch StudiosAlthough it’s only an alpha build, I already feel like I’ve gotten my money’s worth from Rust, having spent many hours trying to survive the game’s dog- eat -dog world.
You arrive in the world of Rust naked, with only a rock for hitting stuff, a torch to see at night and a couple bandages to stop instances of bleeding. The bigger problem is that your stomach is half-empty and getting emptier, so you need to make calorie consumption your top priority.
Run slightly ahead of them before swinging your rock, hitting the animal five or six times. Once it’s down, smash the carcass to gain “raw chicken breast” (this is an alpha build, after all), animal fat and cloth.
Deer can be killed with patience: Approach while crouched, attack, wait for them to finish sprinting away, and repeat three or four times. Wood is plentiful in Rust, so don’t go bashing every tree you see, but after you’ve found food, get at least five chunks for a campfire.
You won’t get anything from the larger crags and mountainsides, but you can use your rock to break small, round boulders that you find on the ground. In exchange, you’ll get stones–a necessary ingredient for arrows and a hatchet–and ore that you can smelt into metal and sulfur later on.
Animals and boulders are scarce resources in Rust, but your best bet is to search along the road that circles the island. Other players and creatures can’t outrun you, so head for the hills and try losing your pursuers in the mountains.
With enough wood, you can create a basic shelter and a door, ideally in a secluded area that you can easily find your way back to at any time. Any time you die, you’ll wind up back at that sleeping bag, so feel free to add a storage box to your shelter for safekeeping valuable items.
At some point, I recommend building a furnace, which can smelt or turn into fragments for creating guns and ammo. Just one caveat: Servers reset on occasion, and shelters break down over time, so nothing’s really permanent in Rust –at least not yet.
You can look for friendly players and try to build a community, join a group of bandits and raise hell, go on a hunt for valuable loot or live the hermit life in the middle of nowhere. There are no set objectives in the Rust alpha, so as long as you feel fulfilled, in a sense you’ll have won.
Iron and its related alloys react to oxygen and water in a specific way. We know this coat as rust, but its full chemical formula is iron(III) oxide, or Felon.
Typically, a piece of iron can take days, weeks, months, and sometimes even years to get that first coat of rust. It’s an extremely common reaction, since iron tends to react easily when it comes into contact with oxygen.
The intensity of rusting will be affected by the amount of exposure the piece of metal gets to water and oxygen. Most people think that iron(III) oxide is merely a damaging substance with no real use.
Jewelers and people who work with optical components often use a compound called rouge,” also known as “jeweler’s rouge” or “red rouge.” The compound contains a fine ferric oxide powder capable of giving different surfaces a shiny finish after a good polishing session. Though not as potent and fast as other polishing products, rouge is still widely used by many jewelers and opticians; you can even use a specific type of rouge called a “stropping compound” on leather strops to help sharpen knives and razor blades better.
Average rouge is sold as either paste, powder, polished or laced cloths, or a single solid bar. Producing steel and iron alloys requires a lot of feedstocks, i.e. raw unfiltered material.
For instance, 0.5% of iron(III) oxide makes up calamine lotion, which we use for itches and irritation. In addition, the lotion gets its famous pinkish hue as a result of the reddish rust mixed with zinc oxide.
Since our bodies already produce iron naturally, there are no real dangers to us adding a bit extra. In other words, if your body accumulates iron too quickly, then it’s probably a good idea not to drink water that’s literally full of it.
Tetanus is caused by the bacteria called Clostridium retain, found in animal feces, soil, and dust. If you were to actually swallow a rusty nail or a large piece of metal with lots of rust on it, you might get a lower form of tetanus.
People who weld, solder, or mine tend to inhale lots of rust dust, which in turn can lead to sclerosis. However, the disease takes years to fully develop, and we can prevent contracting it by using proper protection like masks.
After all, if we use rust in cosmetic and medical products regularly, there’s no real reason to fear if we swallow a bit of it. Well, from what I’ve learned, there are quite a few households that have pots, pans, silverware, and cups that have some minor rust on them.
Therefore, enjoy your meals and don’t worry about ingesting some iron(III) oxide; it might even be good for you. The idea that even if a utensil is clean, the rust can collect in the body, however, is almost never true.
The amount of rust needed to be ingested would be extremely large, or you would have to have a particularly awful immune system. There have been reports of people ingesting a large amount of rust from other means, but never from off of any type of utensil.
Steel cleaning kits use special chemicals in which you soak the utensils and remove rust. Another method of rust removal would be to go to any local sheet metal shop and ask them to use a fine steel wool scrubber.
If not treated properly, rust can continue to eat away at metal until it causes serious damage. You can remove rust from tools, pipes and other metal objects by using a variety of different cleaning products.
These products contain a mixture of chemicals and acids that dissolve rust. The downside of soaking objects in vinegar is that the smell is very strong and some people may find it offensive.
Baking soda can be combined with lemon juice and used to dissolve the rust on a metal object. You can make the baking soda into a paste by mixing it with the lemon juice and then applying it to the rusty areas.
Phosphoric acid is commonly used by professionals to remove rust from automobile parts and commercial machines and tools. As a beginning woodworker and recent college graduate, I don’t have the cash to buy brand-new planes and tools.
The issue with many old woodworking tools from tag sales and garages is that they have been sitting in a drawer, or worse a damp box, and have accumulated surface grime and rust over the decades or disuse or abuse. I’ll explain how to remove rust on vintage hand tools in a cheap and easy way without dealing with harsh chemicals or paying to have it cleaned.
All you need is some salt, vinegar, baking soda, denatured alcohol, some abrasives like a 3M pad or steel wool, and a mat for your work bench. I prefer the pad at this stage because its woven strands won’t clog with the heavy sediment that will be coming off the plane.
Once things are submerged, add two tablespoons of baking soda (or about one cup per gallon, again) to the water and give it a mix. The baking soda will neutralize the acidity and also cause any vinegar trapped under or behind rust to foam and loosen even more.
At this point, the steel wool should start bringing a nice cast sheen to your tool without removing the patina. The alcohol will wick away any moisture left on the metal so rust doesn’t come back to haunt you.
While the vinegar and salt mixture will not harm steel, it can eat aluminum fairly quickly. Also, another common issue with older planes is that the japanning (the black enamel coating) can sometimes be ruined or partially taken off.
Some people don’t mind leaving it half-on, but if there are extensive sections missing sometimes it is easier to start fresh by removing all the japanning. I’ve found toluene will remove stubborn enamel and allow a uniform cast look, and it can be applied with steel wool to etch off the coating.
A quick scrub with some toluene and a brass brush removed that so now I can leave it nude, or repaint it with some automotive enamel. While it wasn't as bad as the 220 block plane above, it had a fair amount of surface rust from sitting in a humid tool box.
Here is the Stanley 220 standard block plane laying halfway in the vinegar and salt bath. After giving the plane a scouring, I put it back into container with water and baking soda for about 10 minutes.