The automobile industry uses steel in its manufacturing wherever structural strength is needed. Ideally this steel should be protected before it starts to rust and corrode; thus preserving the strength and integrity it was originally designed to provide.
If it is made of iron, metal, or steel, it will rust and corrode if left unprotected; start protecting your investment today. All Rustbelt Formulas may be applied by brush, roller, or spray equipment.
Roller applications result in an approximate DFT of 3 mils per coat. Rustbelt Automotive applied through an Help spray system using a 1.5 tip with 40 PSI will achieve a DFT of approximately 2 mils per coat.
After the application of each coat of Rustbelt Automotive, flush the gun or submerge the tip in Xylene. As Rustbelt cures it expels solvents and releases a carbon dioxide gas while dehydrating the rust.
The first coat must be applied generously enough over the rust for this process to take place. The second coat is critical to fill any pin holes and seal the surface with an airtight, armor like shield of protection.
Apply additional coats to achieve the desired DFT for the appropriate protection for the project. Optimum drying time between coats of Rustbelt is 2 to 4 hours.
When the product does not transfer to a gloved fingertip it is ready to accept an additional coat of Rustbelt. It is important that corners, edges, and heavily pitted areas are adequately covered.
When Rustbelt cures it pulls tight to the center; therefore, it is particularly important that edges and corners are sufficiently covered. Rustbelt can be used as an automotive primer and can be wet sanded and directly painted over.
Apply an additional coat of Rustbelt, again wet sanding to a very smooth surface, wait 6 – 7 hours before applying a topcoat (time may vary depending on weather conditions). This will seal out any moisture the body filler might attract while adding strength and durability to any weak places.
You can apply Rustbelt over existing bond, fiberglass, or paint if there is no rust present after scuffing the surface with 100 or 150 grit sand paper or sanding blocks. Optimum drying time between coats of Rustbelt is approximately two (2) to four (4) hours depending on humidity levels.
Ideally a topcoat should be applied within 24 to 48 hours after the final coat of Rustbelt. The application of a top coat before this process is complete may result in dimpling of the surface and an undesirable finish.
If you are using a premium finishing paint and the manufacturer has specific primer requirements, it is recommended you apply the primer over Rustbelt after the surface has been scuffed up and wet sanded. Black Shell is an outstanding protective stand-alone coating that requires no base coat or topcoat and when applied over Rustbelt provides unbeatable protection with a gloss black finish.
Rustbelt provides excellent surface protection under bed liner material. As with the addition of any topcoat or other product, if 72 hours have lapsed after the final coat of Rustbelt, the surface should be scuffed with 100-150 grit sanding paper or sanding block to ensure proper adhesion of the liner material.
Can steel and alloy suffer from galvanic reaction where the two are joined? Rust bullet will prevent the chemical action between the two metals and has phenomenal adhesion which will bond easily to both the aluminum and steel.
During the curing process, Rustbelt releases carbon dioxide gas. Air and moisture can penetrate these holes, allowing rust and corrosion to form, so sealing them is necessary.
A second or third coat seals any pin holes that have formed, fully protecting the metal underneath. The surface to which Rustbelt is to be applied must also be completely free of dust, dirt, mold or mildew, oil, wax and any loose particles.
Spray systems must be cleaned with Rustbelt Solvent immediately after use, or the equipment may irreparably damage. If Rustbelt Solvent is unavailable, xylene, toluene or acetone may be substituted.
Rustbelt is ready to be recoated or have a top coat applied in 4 to 6 hours. A good practice is to pour out small amounts into another container for use and recover the original can.
These holes may be tiny, invisible to the eye, but they will allow moisture and oxygen to penetrate, compromising the rust protection of Rustbelt. For most applications, a minimum thickness of 6 mil (.0006 inches or .1524 millimeters) is required to meet this standard, which typically equates to 2 coats.
Laying on Rustbelt too thickly will result in blemishes like fish eyes or blistering, which are both visually undesirable and less effective at providing protection. I've spent the last hour or so reading old POR and Rustbelt posts, but I still don't know how much “paint' is needed to cover a frame.
)I'm planning to get some Rustbelt and the black top coat, but before I order anything, can someone tell me how much I'll need to cover a frame. Also, it is good to order it in pints so you don't risk so much in a spill or hardening up on you.
I'm planning to get some Rustbelt and the black top coat, but before I order anything, can someone tell me how much I'll need to cover a frame. Get 3 pints as insurance, or in case you want to spray 3 coats.
I'm not in a hurry -- I'm getting some mounts and other stuff taken care of next week, then I plan to use Rustbelt or POR. Based on everyone's responses, I'll order two pints (in separate containers). I confirmed by calling Rustbelt that the Black Shell is not necessary, overkill IMO.
The owner has had it for 20 of it's 35 years, but only put about 8,000 of the 27,000 miles on it in that time. He always filled the tank with gas and Sybil, and drained the carbs when stored.
It got ridden a few times a year when he was back from overseas. The interior looks like somebody simply took a can of rust colored primer and sprayed the inside.
I figure if it runs without clogging the carbs, maybe it is something I should leave alone. I saw another one last week that looked similar, and it is being ridden, and the carbs had just been rebuilt by an experienced mechanic.
So.... leave it alone, shake it with gravel and sand (liquid sanding) or go the chemical treatment route and hope it doesn't eat up too much good metal? Ride it until it becomes an actual problem, or add an easily changed, clear filter would be my choice.
I used to do the same when I was into street rods, because the tanks I was forced to use years ago were of such an unknown quality (as in a freshly junked car). Ride it until it becomes an actual problem, or add an easily changed, clear filter would be my choice.
My wife's '94 has about a dozen 1/16-1/8” rust spots that I can see through the filler hole. It looks like surface rust, with no signs of flaking. I took the factory Yamaha external filter off, junked the bracket, extended the lines slightly so you can replace it without removing the tank, and installed a cheap/common From inline filter.
I just consider it to be a couple dollar, yearly maintenance item. Well, so far I have talked with a couple of guys who are more well-informed (smarter) than me, and one said he seemed to recall these tanks came with a red paint or primer inside to prevent rust from the factory to the owner.
My auto mechanic who owns bikes, said he didn't think there was much rust, if it was rust. I did the old drain gas into a coffee filter and see what comes out trick, and I find a little if real fine black or dark brown grit. I still need to take the tank off, give it a good sloshing around part full, and see what the coffee filter shows.
Then I will pull the petcocks and clean the screens, and make a decision as to just doing a paper inline filter, or roll some BB's around and do an inline, or try something like Evaporate. Also, I jump started it and rode it to warm the oil.
Some seeps from gaskets (like an old tractor) from over the years of sitting, and the plugs are black like too rich. New tires, and battery, plus, filters and fluid changes.
Cosmetics-- the battery side covers and tool tray are gone. Otherwise, she should be pretty slick when she cleans up-- very little rust on the frame and chrome.
There's not much point in removing the rust if you don't redcoat the tank. One local shop owner uses pennies and paint thinner in the tank with lots of shaking to clean out the loose rust and the chemical cleaner and coating to finish the job.
I finally decided it was time to get off the pot and make a decision. I buttoned the tank back up, and will add inline filters.
I could see where the rust flakes came from-- the bottom left along the seam, and fortunately it does not look or feel like it ate much away. Of course, when the heat breaks, I'll want to be riding the Wee, so this may have to sit until winter.