The Detroit Post
Thursday, 21 October, 2021

How Much Does Rust Removal On Car Cost

author
Elaine Sutton
• Sunday, 18 October, 2020
• 7 min read

Rust, which is a kind of deterioration in which oxygen gets into metal, eventually making it to turn into a reddish-brown color, will ultimately consume parts of your vehicle if you overlook it. Significant repair work, typically bigger than 12 inches in size, can be very deep and even go through the metal, leaving hollow areas.

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(Source: www.carthrottle.com)

Contents

An online forum member on GarageJournal noted that they took their vehicle to a regional store and were quoted around $300 to sand down the whole hood and repaint it. The rust area, when left unattended, can grow as time goes on, continuing to spread out till it’s effectively stopped.

For rust jobs that have been disregarded for rather a long time, the parts damaged will be examined to identify the very best strategy. If you’re trying to find an efficient long-lasting repair work, then it’s typically smart to change the whole panel for structural and stability reasons.

Plus, changing the panel can frequently avoid the rust from persisting as most repair work will not last a lifetime, particularly if you continue to use the car in the exact same way you had before. You can also eliminate rust with a sanding disk on an angle mill, followed by the addition of a body filler, such as Bond.

Prevention is essential, and despite the fact that it might be too late, it’s constantly a good idea to park your vehicle inside as much as possible to protect it from the outdoors. If it gets bad enough you will need to do something about it and that means you need to know what the rust repair cost is going to set you back.

Auto Repairs Are EXPENSIVE Engine Replacement: $1300+ Transmission: $1000+ Air Conditioner: $750+ Rust is caused when the metal that contains iron in your car is exposed to moisture and begins to oxidize.

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(Source: carscratchrepairnewbinyoo.blogspot.com)

Salt also increases the chemical reaction that leads to oxidation so if you live in a part of the world where roads are salted during the winter months then the metal in your car is at greater risk of faster and more extensive rusting. Because keeping your car away from moisture is literally impossible, rust is often an unavoidable concern for drivers to have to deal with.

The thing about rust repairs is that they can be unpredictable, and they are hard to categorize in terms of cost. Your car could have one rust spot at the edge of a side panel or the entire frame could be corroding.

Small spots of only a few inches in diameter can be repaired on your own if you feel comfortable doing the work. You can buy a Bond repair kit at Autosome for only $20 that will allow you to patch a small rust hole.

You’ll notice rust forms in flaky layers sometimes, almost like a pastry. Likewise, if you have spots or holes caused by rust that span an area or are in a large grouping you’ll need a more in-depth solution.

A Bond kit can work here but the more rust you have, the less sound your frame is going to be and also the uglier it’s going to look if you patch it extensively. These larger spots increase the cost proportional to the size or number that you’re experiencing, so while a $20 kit may have fixed a small one, you may be looking at $60 or so for these larger patches, plus labor costs if you go to a mechanic.

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(Source: www.mokeforum.com.au)

Major rust repair costs are going to be very high relative to those small ones you can fix yourself. If your car is rusted so extensively that it’s not cost -effective to even try to repair it, there’s always a chance you can salvage some value by selling it as a junker.

You’ll want to sand a slightly larger area than the rust spot and using a finer grit to feather the edges. The surface needs to be perfectly clean to apply the prep solvent before the paint.

Sand the epoxy primer with 1,000 grit sandpaper then wash with water and dry. Pain with lacquer filler primer, at least two or three coats allowing the recommended drying time between each.

Sand the primer with a 300 to 320-grit sandpaper to get rid of any dried and uneven drips. Spray the base coat of color slowly from left to right in even layers.

This may be the hardest part because the clear coat is very thin and will run if you over spray. This removes a lot of the guesswork and should help your confidence if you’re new to this kind of work.

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(Source: www.smartmotorguide.com)

If any steps go wrong, especially that clear coat, this process can take up to three days to complete. This is the best way to save time and money on rust -related repairs down the road.

Rust proofing is usually sprayed under the car to protect the bottom, which would naturally have the most exposure to water and salt as you drive. If you’ve ever looked at the underside of a car, you’ll notice the steel components are painted black.

3M, for instance, makes a rubberized undercoat derived from asphalt that not only seals and rust -proofs the car, it also helps deaden road noise. A second aspect of the permanent rust proofing that many cars will receive is a paraffin-based sealant such as Guard.

It’s meant to not drip off the car to leave any streaks on your driveway, and it should be applied once a year. Get your car waxed before winter arrives as an extra layer of protection.

The cost of repairing rust damage can get fairly extensive if it’s been allowed to go for a considerable period of time, but with a little maintenance, it doesn't need to be so extreme. Rust, which is a form of corrosion in which oxygen combines with metal, ultimately causing it to turn into a reddish brown color, will eventually eat away at your car if you ignore it.

Use this estimate as an indicator “per” area. Major repairs, often larger than 12 inches in diameter, can be extremely deep and even through the metal, leaving hollow spots. Extensive damage may require more than just removal such as welding and/or replacing part sections.$200 to $2,000+, greatly depending on the amount of labor required and size of the job. A forum member on this GarageJournal.com forum thread said he took his car to a local shop and was quoted $300 to sand down the entire hood and repaint it.

The spot, when left alone, can get bigger as time goes on, continuing to spread until it’s successfully stopped. This type of repair is fairly straightforward and will require a sander and a metal conditioner.

For rust jobs that have been ignored for quite some time, then the parts affected will be inspected to determine the best course of action. If you’re looking for an effective long-term repair, then it’s often wise to replace the entire panel for structural and integrity purposes.

While this type of repair won’t be cheap, it can extend the life of your vehicle and can help the car hold its value. Plus, replacing the panel can often prevent the rust from reoccurring as many repairs won’t last a lifetime, especially if you continue to treat the car the same way you had before.

You can also remove rust with a sanding disk on an angle grinder, followed by fixing a body filler, such as Bond. When committing to such a big ticket item, it’s advisable to find ways to protect the value of your investment for as long as possible.

In addition, the cost of repairing the damage done by any corrosion that develops can really add up depending on what component(s) are affected (paint, circuits, floor panels, etc. The process involves spraying a rust proofing product on the surface of the under body that is designed to protect it from moisture.

These solutions seep into the hard-to-reach door seam, joints, and crevices that are hotspots for rust and corrosion. Small holes need to be drilled in order for the product to reach certain areas of the car (more about this later), and an annual application is typically recommended.

This product is designed to prevent corrosion on the entire vehicle, and won’t cause any dripping after application. This solution involves an electronic module that sends weak electric currents through the metal of a vehicle.

This is a great short term solution, however the undercoating can chip away and cause moisture to actually seep into cracks, getting trapped under the coat and accelerating the corrosion process. The undercoating also doesn’t protect the rest of the car, and won’t be any help for areas already affected by rust or damage.

When done by a trusted professional, any holes should be drilled in unnoticeable places such as near the door latch and on the underside of the vehicle, and will be too tiny to spot. The benefits of drilling in order to apply a rust proofing solution outweigh the inconvenience of having small holes that no one will ever know are there.

Other elements such as dry weather and the UV rays from the sun can accelerate rust and corrosion once the initial damage occurs. In winter conditions, salt and other chemicals used for snow or ice removal make its way underneath your car and stick to the metal surfaces.

The combination of salt and water is more damaging than rust, as the solution eats away at the metal, weakening it and causing it to fall apart. Salt and deicing chemicals are designed to lower the freezing point of water, allowing your car to hit pavement in winter conditions.

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