Plan to spend about $100 on supplies like sandpaper, primer, masking tape and poly sheeting, a tack rag, polishing compound and touch-up paint and clear coat. Buy automotive touch-up paint in pints and quarts to use in a spray gun, in aerosol cans, or in roller ball applicators.
Pro-tip: Even if you know how to use a spray gun, mixing automotive paint with a reducer to match the temperature and humidity conditions can be mighty tricky. Instead, buy aerosol cans for larger repairs and roller ball applicators to fix scratches.
Buy 40-, 600- and 1,000-grit sandpaper, a sanding block, grease and wax remover, poly sheeting, painter's tape, a tack rag and a microfiber cloth. Tape the leading edge of poly sheeting a few feet away from the repair so you'll have room to blend the touch-up paint into the good areas.
If the rust has created pits in the metal, you can fill them now with body filler or wait until the epoxy primer dries and apply multiple coats of filler primer. Wipe the area with a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining dust or lint.
Spray the filler primer in heavier coats to cover the entire repair area. Move the can away from the surface slightly and blend it into the surrounding painted area.
Pro-tip: Self-etching epoxy primer provides a strong bond to bare metal, so use it as your first coat. Wait a full hour for the epoxy to dry to the touch (longer if it's humid outside).
Starting with wet 600-grit sandpaper, smooth the primer and feather the edges. Switch to wet 1,000-grit sandpaper to final-sand the entire repair, including the blended areas.
Start at the bottom of the repair and apply the color coat in left-to-right rows, overlapping each pass by about one-third. Pro-tip: Don't sand the base coat (especially metallic colors) unless you've created sags.
Gradually work the clear coat into the surrounding painted areas to achieve a smooth blend line. Note: This is the hardest part because all clear coats run easily and that will ruin the look of your paint job.
If you create a run in the clear coat, you'll have to let it dry for at least 48 hours before attempting to fix it with fine-grit sandpaper and polishing compound. So practice spraying on a scrap piece of cardboard to get a feel for the nozzle and the speed of application.
Modular Vehicles have finally been added to Rust, but where can you find them and, more importantly, how do you build them? Alongside the addition of Modular Vehicles, the road topography in Rust has been updated to make driving a lot smoother.
It’s still no Fora Horizon 4, but it’ll be a damn sight easier to maneuver your new car around. You’ll be able to modify your new vehicle to suit your needs and play style by adding new functions such as better storage or passenger capacity, as well as customize them and upgrade the engine.
The Rusty chassis of different types of vehicles can be found at the roadside in Rust, and you’ll be able to identify them by all the smoke and sparks flying out of them. To get them moving, you can use low-grade fuel to run Modular Vehicles or push them yourself but be warned: if a car rolls back and hits you, you’re going to have a bad time.
You’ll also be able to craft low, medium and high-quality variants of each component which will influence its effectiveness and durability. You’ll need a significant amount of scrap to blueprint and craft the parts, so loot whatever you can.
Putting in higher grade parts will increase its max power, fuel efficiency and acceleration, which will make a big difference. Build a car lift To repair the engine and add modules to your vehicle, you can use your Hammer to smash in the new parts.
Once you’ve crafted or collected all the modules you’re looking for, go ahead and bash them together to make a new souped-up car. You can also craft a metal key for 15 scraps to make sure no unauthorized players drive your car, which is handy.
This is your Sunday afternoon ritual; you pull the car out, you give it a good cleaning, and then you reap the rewards by taking it out for a spin. Most of the time, enthusiasts fear that if they try to fix the rust on their own, they will make a bad situation worse.
We traveled to Old Glory Automotive in Largo, Florida, and watched as they eradicated a rusty situation on an Impala fender. While there are a lot of images, our hope is that you can gain a basic understanding of how to properly fix rust on your own car.
If you live in an area where seasonal changes mean your car has, at one time or another, seen snow and ice, you will be combating rust. The “salts” used to clear ice and snow from roads will accelerate rust damage on your car.
Your decision will depend greatly on how extensive the rust damage is, and what kind of results you are expecting. Old Glory Automotive had this rusty Impala fender that needed repair, so we thought we would take an afternoon and show you how easy it is to make and install a simple patch panel.
This fender is much like many others, the salt and moisture had accumulated behind the sheet metal over the years, and eventually the rust poked through. With the curvature of the metal proper for fitment to our fender, we next focused on bending the 90-degree fender-to-doorjamb lip.
We understand that many of you doing this repair in your home shop probably don’t have a lot of body- repair tools, especially a sheet metal break, but you can get the same results with a couple of pieces of angle iron, some locking pliers, and a sturdy work bench. Once we bent the fender-to-doorjamb edge, the task inadvertently flattened our curved patch panel.
We had access to a metal Shriner to recon tour the panel, but again, they can cost a few hundred dollars, so not many guys will have one in their home shop. Alternatively, you can get a pair of metal shrinking pliers that will accomplish the same task for a lot less money.
Even though our patch panel did lose its curvature when we bent the fender-to-doorjamb lip, it was not a major issue. Old Glory Automotive’s Lead Fabricator TJ told us, “I like to avoid using square patch pieces.
By making my patch piece with a rounded edge, no excessive heat buildup will occur.” With the outer, rusted sheet metal removed, we can see that the inner fender bracing also needs some attention.
Once all the rust was removed, we covered the metal with a compound called Off, and then a good primer. If we do not make this recess in the patch panel, attaching the fender to the car with the bolt will cause it to buckle in this area.
One thing to keep in mind is that you do not want your patch panel to fit tightly to the piece being repaired. If you do have a little war page or even some fine pits, a small skim coat of filler is not a terrible thing.
To completely attach the fender-to-doorjamb edge and the area at the bottom of the repair, small 1/4 to 3/8-inch holes are drilled in the patch. With the patch in place, these small holes give you an area that can be fill-welded to the fender bracing.
Rust can start at any time, anywhere on your vehicle, which means that you have to be proactive in abating the issue. The latest product from Martin Senor Paints is just the thing you have looking for: Rustproof M/D.
In fact, you only need two of these to get the process started, with all three in ample supply, your car’s sheet metal and steel are a veritable smorgasbord for corrosion. This leads to pitting and can eventually break the aluminum down completely just like rust does to iron.
There are many ways to take care of rust, but most of them require complete disassembly of the vehicle, which is not always feasible or even justifiable. Unlike standard paints and coating, Rustproof M/D treats rust directly, stopping it dead in its tracks, and sealing the metal away from oxygen & moisture to prevent any future corrosion.
Just repainting over the rust won’t stop it, in fact, it can actually make it worse, as the rust will go deeper into the metal as opposed to spreading outward to the surrounding fresh metal. Additionally, the topcoat may not provide the right level of sealing, as even microscopic pores can lead to rust formation.
Part of what makes Rustproof M/D special is that it requires minimal preparation and can be applied of nearly anything. Unlike other rust coatings, Rustproof M/D does not require a top coat, it has built-in UV protection just like regular paint, so that it will not fade, deteriorate, or chalk up.
Applying Rustproof M/D is straightforward, but you do need to pay attention, as there are a couple of tips that will make the process easier and yield better results. Remove any loose paint, rust, or debris with a wire brush, and then sand the surface with a gray Scotch-Brite™ pad or 320 grit sandpaper.
We started the prep by scrubbing the entire piece with a wire brush to knock off any loose debris. This specialized prep cleaner removes all wax, grease, and any other potentially harmful residues from the surface to be coated.
Once sprayed with Surface Cleaner, wipe the substrate down with a clean dry cloth. This helps show you any paint that could lift, as well as preps the metal for adhesion.
Caution- DO NOT shake the can, this will create bubbles in the paint that will show up in the finished surface, Rustproof M/D is quite thick, and the paint will dry before the bubbles break, leaving rough surface finish. To avoid ruining the paint left in the can, pour out what you need and reseal the can immediately.
Once the coating is cured, you are ready to put the vehicle back in service. Wipe the surface with a clean, dry towel, and you are ready to top coat.
This is ready to go back on the car. This product does an excellent job of treating rusted metal, and leaves a nice gloss finish that is perfect for frames, floor pans, chassis components, any surface that needs protection from rust. It also serves as an excellent base for treating rusty sheet metal that will be refinished with automotive paints to protect from future rust problems.
Best of all, it is easy to apply without expensive and difficult to use spray equipment, so any Diver can get the job done in their garage or even driveway.