What this does are allow the base coat, paint, and primer to adhere to the metal much better which in turn is the rust prevention strategy. The drivetrain including front and rear sub-frame DO NOT go through this process and are NOT painted.
Keep in mind that rust oxidation is caused by a chemical reaction between oxygen and the metal. Salt will speed up the process via an electrochemical reaction (electrolytes) very similar to how a battery works.
The under tray on our cars does not prevent all moisture from reaching our subframes unfortunately, nor do they help with humidity. It's a thick grease that the water (and oxygen) can't penetrate.
Unless there is some type of damage that has penetrated the paints and to the metal. The hinges of doors, trunk, hood should be rust proofed for good measure.
Washing the under body after a salty drive will not prevent rust. You are now combining the oxygenated water with salt, making salt water and blasting it into crevices that potentially were not exposed to this previously.
There are also under tray panels preventing you from spraying in a lot of areas where water from puddles and moisture in the air could penetrate. Including salt water, rain, snow from going in through the front kidney grills, ducts, around headlights, etc.
And if you have an early model e90 and you think rust proofing is a waste then ask a mechanic to put it on a hoist, take off the under panels, and take a look yourself. Drives: with both hands and both feet I'm pretty sure both subframes on my ///m are painted in a semigloss black.
The only items not painted are the control arms (aluminum), the front spindles, the rear knuckles, engine block, motor mounts, transmission case, and rear diff. Drives: '10 X5 3.5D Mine has rust spots in the seat rails, apparently in the winter getting in with your feet full of snow will cause some of that snow and salt to get in, it then stays there until it dries.
But all BS aside. If anything it make the water stay up there longer and damage your frame faster. I don't remember it being a grease, but a black, tarry substance that was not only sprayed on the entire undercarriage of the car, but holes were drilled in doors, fenders, and trunk lids to spray inside those cavities. The worse part was doing any maintenance on a car that had been rust proofed”.
That stuff had to be scraped off any nuts or bolts, parts were coated in it, and it was basically just a completely messy job. I was only 19 and unknown to me the left front fender had been replaced because of an accident.
I used to just sell my cars after 60,000 miles to avoid any problems with rust. I had a new '74 Toyota Celia GT that I kept for 80,000 miles and the front fenders were rusted through.
Drives: Z4 3.0si, 328 Drive, X5 35i For the first 2 and 1/2 years of its life, my car lived in Florida and never saw salty winter roads. This year, I am building a nice new garage, so in addition to winter storage, the car will be garaged each night so its clean and dry most all the time.
By doing this, I plan for my car to have an exceedingly long and happy life. Hello everyone... I was wondering if you could all give me some advice on my little problem as I am having a rabbit in headlights moment and don't know what course of action to take I bought a 2004 3.0 z4 from a BMW dealership (Bristol) in November 2009.
... So I took it in to my local BMW dealership (lough ton), and asked them to have a look.... To my horror, I have been told that the whole car has been re-sprayed prior to me buying it and therefore doesn't have any paint warranty and that the bobbles are caused by rust under the surface of the paint. I am getting a full paint report from them when the car goes back in for its windshield/rain sensor to be changed in 2 weeks time.
It will be key to how you handle this. Sounds dubious that the entire car has been resprayed, but I guess since you are taking it back in and getting a full report then wait for that for definitive answers. I'd certainly then start building my case against the original dealer and would take it up with BMW UK direct by making some initial calls to them before approaching the supplying dealer.
If the entire car is as you say resprayed and is rusting and you only purchased 3 months ago, then I'd be looking for a full refund and start again. Yeah sorry I meant purchased it November 2008, when I spoke to the service guy he told me that the paint guy had told him that he had thought the car had been fully sprayed and showed me the signs that pointed him to that conclusion. (over spray on rubber seals inside the doors, bonnet slightly off (not put back on properly)so I then asked if they would verify it on paper in a full report, and they said 'definitely' as they feel sorry for me buying a car under false knowledge of prior work.
Major accident damage? You should be able to reject the car under the Sale of Goods Act if it is not of satisfactory quality, or fit for purpose. I'd start making calls to BMW and the supplying dealer to see what they want to do.
Life in cold climates brings with it certain unique challenges, one of which is coping with cold-weather car care. When that happens, you expose raw paint to the elements and begin the corrosive cycle of oxidization.
A thorough wash once a week should be enough to keep salt of your paint, though more may be necessary if you drive in particularly soggy conditions. Most BMWs ride close to the asphalt, and it’s easy for rust to begin in an out-of-the-way place and then spread.
Because of the way small scratches can expose your BMW ’s finish to oxidization, you’ll want to repair them as quickly as possible. Even if a scratch doesn’t look awful, it can lead to rust if left untreated.
Make sure to use direct light and change angles, particularly on lighter-colored cars where it can be difficult to spot imperfections. For BMW owners who live in cold climates where rust can be a problem, sealant can be the difference between a forever car and a long-lost memory.
Depending on how big your dimmer is, expect to spend $100 to $400 to apply a quality sealer. You might even want to consider applying a coat if you don’t live in the snow, but for places where rust is a problem, this is a no-brainer.
A little work is a small price to pay for a rust -free ultimate driving machine. Larger all round than the Z3 and three times stiffer, but barely any heavier, the Z4 wowed its customers with typically vivacious styling by Chris Bangle.
The Z4 was the first BMW with electric power steering, and the soft-top was fully automatic with no manual clips or latches, taking under 10 secs to go up or down. Z4 enthusiasts have an inexpensive fix, and the great following and self-help groups set up for the cars confirm their classic potential.
The N52 has hydraulic cam lifters that can suffer from losing oil, leading to a tractor-like noise when starting from cold. Check for seat damage and wear, especially to the driver’s bolster, and watch out for damp carpets, which can wreak havoc with the electrics.
Electric steering assistance was provided on all but Ms (which are hydraulic); problems with stiffness and noise are usually easy to cure. All Z4s have lively performance, and which model you choose should reflect how you want to use it: the smaller engines are only ‘slow’ when compared to the bigger ones.
Regular servicing is important, so check the history: some had a replacement cylinder head and lifters under warranty, a permanent cure. Conrad bearings and even bolts can fail, so if there’s any rattle from deep inside the engine, be very wary.
Practical, fun, spacious, stylish and extremely easy to live with, the Z4 offers a wide choice from relaxed cruiser to serious bruiser, depending on the options you choose. Take time to learn the different specs and options, and try to find the car that most closely matches your ideal, or you’ll regret it later.