A range of products is available today that can eliminate stubborn oxidation rust spots on tools, car parts, antiques and, well, basically anything made of iron, all without the need to painstakingly grind it away or sandblast down to solid metal. Removing rust with these products is as simple as tossing any grungy-looking items into a bath of rust dissolved and letting the solution go to work, attacking oxidation without harming the base material and often without affecting rubber, plastic or even a painted surface.
Craig Cole/Roadshow There are many versions of this sort of product, which are like a lot of elbow grease crammed into a little bottle. We rounded up five readily available rust removal products to find out if they work as well as their manufactures claim.
We soaked several rusty steel components in each one, following the manufacturers' directions and diluting if required. The items soaked include a section of sheet metal and two different sizes of threaded rod with rust buildup.
This means Rust 911 is a tremendous value compared to some of its competitors since its per-ounce price is very low, something that makes it more economical to soak larger components in, perhaps automotive parts like bumpers or radiator supports. When diluted, it starts out as clear as water, but over time it turns inky black as it eats away rust.
Unfortunately, it had a little more trouble with the threaded rod test pieces, though to be fair, they may have been slightly contaminated with oil or paint in sections that limited its ability to dissolve the rust. It's noncorrosive, emits no fumes or foul odors, won't harm paint and it can be poured down the drain when it's all used up.
It won't harm copper, brass, aluminum, rubber, plastic or vinyl, either. Larger items can be debuted by saturating paper towels in this product and draping them over whatever needs to be cleaned.
Capo- Rust is slightly yellow and somewhat foamy when poured out, while its rivals are crystal clear. Like the competing products evaluated here, this one had no trouble eliminating rust from the sheet-metal sample, eradicating most of it in just 2 hours and leaving behind a smooth surface.
It also did an excellent job cleaning up the threaded-rod sections, getting deep in the grooves and removing rust, though it did seem a tiny bit slower to work than the others. Strangely, Evans- Rust did leave the parts slightly black, darker than the components soaked in competing products, so be aware of that.
The ready-to- go bath version works straight from the bottle (a concentrated formula is also offered), it's easy to use and highly effective, but that's not all. Some older paints and inks contain iron oxide-based pigments, and this rust remover product could easily damage them.
Also, like other products here, this one will remove sacrificial oxide coatings like zinc phosphate and bluing, so be aware of that. If you're concerned about whether it's safe to soak something in a rust dissolved, test some on a small area first.
Like the products listed above, it's super safe, won't harm other materials and can be reused over and over until it stops working. For best results, the manufacturer recommends getting rid of as much oil and grease as possible from the items you're looking to soak.
It's a good idea to remove loose debris and dirt residue, too, with coarse sandpaper or wire brush. Completely submerging things is the way to go here, and once parts are finished, rinsing them off with water and drying them is smart.
Despite its low cost, WD-40 Rust Remover soak did a great job on both the sheet metal and threaded-rod samples. It removed stubborn rust from deep in the threads and left the sheet steel smooth and clean, complete with an almost-galvanized look.
It starts working in as little as 20 minutes to clean up heavily rusted metal, though, of course, you can soak things for much longer than that, even overnight. Rust 911POR 15 Rust RemoverEvapo- Rust Metal RescueWD-40 Rust Remover SoakFormula Concentrate Ready to use Ready to use Ready to use Ready to use Dilution 8 ounces per gallon of water (16-to-1 ratio) -- -- -- -- Recommended soaking times 15 minutes to overnight 20 minutes to overnight 1 to 12 hours 2 hours to two days 30 minutes to 24 hours Price $38.75 per quart $10.25 per quart $9.99 per quart $32.81 per gallon $22.51 per gallon Unit price 7.6 cents per oz 32.0 cents per oz 31.2 cents per oz 25.6 cents per oz 17.6 cents per oz Other features Non-hazardous, non-toxic, non-flammable, biodegradable, safe to use.
Biodegradable ingredients; safe for rubber, plastic and paint; non-toxic, acid-free, contains no Vows, 100%-biodegradable formula. If your garage or workspace is freezing cold in the winter or if the attic of your townhouse gets boiling hot in the middle of August, you might want to consider finding a more temperate place or time to use them for maximum effectiveness.
No, you don't have to spit-shine the parts you're trying to DE- rust, but if you clean off any heavy dirt and remove grease and oil, they will almost all work much better. Four of the five products tested in this article are safe to use, containing no solvents, acids, Vows or other nasty ingredients.
Nearly all these rust dissolves are also environmentally friendly and will not harm other materials like plastic, rubber, paint or non-ferrous metals. Depending on how many components you're looking to clean up and how severely they're rusted will determine which product will work best for your application.
Depending on how severely rusted the parts are that you're trying to clean up, soak times can last from 15 minutes to two days. At this point, they're generally safe enough to be poured right down a drain, making cleanup and disposal a snap.
Whether you're working on a crusty carburetor base, revitalizing an old axe head you inherited from grand pappy or even sprucing up some antiques you just picked up from a garage sale, rust -removing solutions can be super handy. In certain applications, they essentially eliminate the need for sandpaper, steel wool and wire brushes, plus the associated time and effort required to clean things up.
Climb in the driver's seat for the latest car news and reviews, delivered to your inbox twice weekly. It's used mostly in bathtubs, sinks, toilet bowls, shower heads, humidifiers, dishwashers, washing machines and more.
Block overflow with damp rag or sponge and hold firmly. Follow the instructions on the bottle of CLR product that you purchase to make sure that you are using it correctly.
The materials to avoid using CLR on are painted surfaces, aluminum, etched glass, Formica, colored grout, natural stone, brass and copper. By the time the product reaches the septic system, it's neutralized with water so there is no danger in using CLR.
If you have any questions about CLR or other commercial drain cleaning products, call Atlantis Plumbing today at 770-505-8570. These might seem like simple questions, but not knowing the answer can create complicated drain cleaning problems.
Most of the time liquid soaps like shower gel and shampoo aren’t a problem. It might seem like a chore at first, but cleaning hair out of the shower drain every time you use it can help you avoid serious clogs.
If you’re unable to reach into the drain to remove the clog by pulling it out, baking soda, vinegar, and hot water may do the trick. Give it a few minutes to fizz (at least five, preferably longer), then rinse the drain with hot water.
Occasionally use boiling hot water to flush the drains to help prevent clogs. You can dump coffee without the grounds, milk, tea, anything you drink that is solid-liquid in a kitchen sink.
While honey may seem closer to a liquid than a solid, pouring it down the drain or garbage disposal is not recommended. Because honey is extremely sticky, it could cause other debris to get stuck in the drain or blades of the disposal.
The clog in question is in a cast iron tee which connects to the stack. The rust buildup is approximately 12.5 feet from a clean out located in the 2 line at the point it connects to lead pipes that accent to the above bathrooms.
(4) Also has anyone notice the long term effect of using Drano type products and can they accelerate the growth of rust in a cast iron drain system. I realize the worse case is this may cause a leak of erratic acid that I will have to trap and contain.
Twitter suspends President Trump's account It is intended for Calcium and lime and rust build up on the outside like your sink and tub walls.
This is better than Drano which takes time to remove the clog. To remove hard-water stains from your tub, pour in 3 cups white vinegar under running hot tap water.
When the water drains out, you should be able to easily scrub off the stains Ammonia To get rid of those ugly grease and soap-scum buildups in your porcelain enamel sink or tub, scrub it with a solution of 1 tablespoon ammonia in 1 gallon (3.7 liters) hot water. Baking Soda To put the shine back in your stainless steel sink, sprinkle it with baking soda, then give it a rubdown -- moving in the direction of the grain -- with a moist cloth.
Borax Get rid of those stubborn stains -- even rust -- in your stain-less steel or porcelain sink. Put some paste on a cloth or sponge and rub it into the stain, then rinse with running warm water.
Vinegar Put the shine back in your porcelain sinks and bathtubs by giving them a good scrubbing with full-strength white vinegar, followed by a rinse of clean cold water. To remove hard-water stains from your tub, pour in 3 cups white vinegar under running hot tap water.