Make sure to check out the features, Product highlights, and our Scoring Index where we rate based on the following: HG Rust remover removes rust without sanding from fences, garden tools, ice skates, bolts, nuts, tools, etc.
This rust remover is easy to apply and the surface can be repaint able within one hour This rust killer is excellent for treating boat & yacht keels, caravan sub frames and garden gates The thick liquid rust remover works well for threaded surfaces which cannot be immersed Removes rust drip stains Safe for use on fiberglass, metal, plastics, brickwork, tiles, stonework and painted surfaces.
The best rust converter makes rust removal quick and easy, yet knowing what product is most suitable for your needs can be challenging. To help find the best rust converters, check out the below buying guide.
It covers all the useful information you need to know about rust converters and how to choose the right one for any situation. While it can be applied to all kinds of things, the most common use of rust converter is to remove rust from corroded components in a vehicle that can impact its performance and longevity.
A great rust converter is an incredibly useful product for all kinds of things. Most use it to remove rust from parts of their vehicle although it can be used on various day-to-day objects like fences, gates, gardening equipment, tools, and pretty much anything covered in rust.
The process is fast and efficient, with a single coating of the converter all that is needed to remove the rust. Application : A rust converter is a liquid solution that can be either sprayed or brushed onto the surface, with many finding that a spray solution is easier to apply evenly across larger surfaces.
Make sure to check how you apply the converter so that you can buy suitable applicators for the task. The main difference is a much thicker consistency, meaning it can only be brushed on and not sprayed, although this also prevents any dripping from happening so there is less clean up required.
Cars that may otherwise run and drive perfectly fine are often sent to early graves due to severe rust. The bestrusttreatment for cars is the Hammer ite Waxy, which removes rust and helps prevent the spread of corrosion.
If you require a rust remover for small areas, the Built Chamber Hydrate 80 is the best option. Below is a list of the best rust treatments for cars that remove corrosion and helps prevent the spread of new rust.
The Hammer ite Waxy formula is a rust treatment for cars has been used by professionals for many years and for good reason. However, to activate the formula, it must be heated beforehand, which can be achieved by putting the tin in a bucket of hot water.
Award-winning and tested by the German TUV organization Long term performance against rust Can be brushed or sprayed Water based and non-flammable Forms a non-rubbery etched barrier 500 ml bottle The Built Chamber Hydrate 80 is another highly rated rust treatment for cars that provides quick and long-lasting results.
Interestingly, this rust converter is also used on London’s Big Ben and even the Eiffel Tower, therefore it will be more than suitable for treating rusty car surfaces. The CarPlay Under body Sealant is a simple brush on formula that’s designed to protect against further corrosion, salt and water.
It also has the unique bonus of providing excellent sound deadening qualities, which is highly desirable for older vehicles. In terms of the application of this rust remover, simply apply the fluid from the pen onto the surface and allow 15 minutes for it to activate.
All of our recommendations above include rust treatments for cars that remove corrosion and protect the surface once it's been treated. Ian Allen the owner of Dustbuster Ltd is an expert in rust treatment and how to treat rust on cars.
Take a look at this article written about his treatment of a project staff car Morris 1800 for Classics monthly. They provided Ian with products from all the major manufactures, and he shows how to preform rust treatment using rust converters, under body and cavity waxes.
As a starting point you are going to remove any rust and flaking paint from the vehicle, most people understand that loose rust dirt or paint will act as an unstable layer beneath the paint and allow it to fail, but what about the grease and salt, if you don't completely remove all the grease and salt prior to treatment then you are just wasting your time. Dustbuster have developed a unique salt remover Chloral that can be applied via a pressure washer or hose end applicator this makes sure that no rust crystals remain on the steels surface If you blast clean prior to removing the grease and salt you will just force it deep into the pores of the steel and compromise the adhesion of your paint coating and at worse create the perfect rust cell.
If you wire brush or flap wheel clean prior to washing and degreasing then you will do exactly the same. We live on an Island surrounded by sea in a humid atmosphere not to mention the millions of tonnes of rock salt spread on our roads every winter.
Do not use white spirit, turps diesel or paraffin to degrease prior to painting, this will only remove the surface grease and leave an oily diluted residue within the steels pours, this will lead to system failure. There are those chaps who will try to remove every last molecule and produce the most fantastic reproduction of a vehicle you have ever seen I take my hat off too them, its only when they try and get their money back for their masterpiece they find out that it was purely a labor of love.
That is why you really should be careful when buying a classic car from a dealer, there is only so much money he can spend before he sells it. I know from experience that the products and good practice methods we recommend at Dustbuster are going to help you to prevent future outbreaks.
I agree it can seam confusing but the reason there are so many treatments from Dustbuster is similar to the man who was lost in Ireland, when he stopped a stranger and inquired how do I get to this address? The man thought long and hard and scratched his chin and answered “Well I wouldn't start from here if I were you”.
Dustbuster have products for complete bare shell restorations to running repairs. Once degreased and washed surface rust can be easily removed with an Mix Metal blaster power brush which will give you almost as good a white steel surface profile and cleanliness as blast cleaning without the loss of any good metal or the introduction of heat or acid, they are expensive but if you can afford one they are the tops for car restorers see the Mix page in the surface preparation section of this website and watch the video it's an amazing tool.
So now you have managed to clean the steel to an internationally recognized standard a good point to start from. Just prior to painting wipe the treated surface with Chloral to remove any phosphate salts and DA sand or hand sand with an 80 grit abrasive this will leave the surface profile of the steel ready to take the primer and the pits and micropores within the steel will have been passivated.
It has been proven that forfeiting the steel like this improves the ATM salt test performance * of the finished coating. “I then had to explain that the standard salt test cabinet represented an accelerated time period exposed to an aggressive atmosphere.
I know of companies that claim wonderful things for their own products when compared to others on the market because of the results of their own salt tests. Any declaration of salt spray testing would indicate that the product has the ability to withstand an aggressive environment.
Car body work should be prepared back to clean steel treated with Dustbuster Phos-kleen B followed by a coat of Dustbuster Custom Epoxy 421 prior to body filler primers and topcoats. It's very small molecules are able to penetrate deep into the steels surface prior to cross-linking (the joining of the A & B component on drying) this penetration is possible because of the low surface tension caused by these fine molecules.
This surface penetration gives fantastic adhesion when dry due to it attaching itself to every pore, nook and cranny on the steels surface this kind of adhesion is called a primary bond. Even if the system is breached by a sharp stone flying at bullet like speed the stone chip will only corrode at that point, due to the primary bond it is not able to travel under the coating and cause DE lamination.
Mustang structure coated in red Epoxy Mastic 121, including the chassis and floor pan. The awkward profiles of steel under a vehicle means that often preparation by hand tools is the preferred method.
The total removal purists may throw their hands up, but in my experience a large percentage of my customers want to treat rust this way, so they might as well know how to do it properly. Remember we are talking about the steels actual surface which is iron oxide not any loose rust on top of this in layers, any loose rust left on the surface will compromise the adhesion of the paint coating, so all the loose rust must be completely removed back to the steels iron oxide surface prior to conversion.
Within crevices and seams it is impossible to remove all traces of rust without taking the whole assembly apart. The seam needs to be cleaned of any dirt or old rust getting in as far as you can, the rust that forms within an oxygen starved seam or crevice will react instantly to humidity the rate of corrosion will be 400 times faster than surface corrosion.
Inject Dustbuster Fe-123 or work in with a brush to ensure complete saturation of the rust within the seam. This can then be over painted with Epoxy mastic 121 to ensure a perfect airtight barrier.
Its very small molecules are able to penetrate deep into the steels surface prior to cross-linking (the joining of the A & B component on drying) this penetration is possible because of the low surface tension caused by these fine molecules. Every edge of steel or sharp profile has the greatest potential to rust, proof of this is rust breaking out on the return edge of a cars wheel arch, we have worked with manufacturers of cars as recently as 2009 and some of them still get this wrong.
When paint is applied to a panel of steel it flows and wets out to form an even layer, when the same layer thickness is applied to an edge, the paint shrinks as it dries, the solvents leave the coating and its film thickness reduces as a result. To prevent this is simple, applying by brush a coat of paint applied directly to the steels edge and not the surrounding panel will load up the film thickness of this vulnerable area prior to spray coating.
Seam sealers and construction adhesives also play an important part in rust prevention. Use of a polyurethane construction adhesive such as 410 UV when assembling bolt on body panels will reduce the amount of corrosion that can take place due to the differing potentials of the steel used in body panels, shell and chassis, it will also insulate the nut and bolt which will also be of a different potential.
A great deal of care should be taken when bolting aluminum panels to a steel body to insulate them from each other using a construction adhesive. Most of the readers of this chapter I presume are going to be keen amateur auto restoration engineers.
One thing that manufacturers of these body shop products will assume is that the job is going to be carried out in controlled body shop conditions, where the temperature and humidity are managed, of course this is seldom the case with the amateur auto restorer he will be restoring over a period of months or years and in some cases even longer and this is where the corrosion problem can arise. The positives to this are there ease of use and the ability for the amateur to get a reasonably good result with little experience.
In controlled body shop conditions a porous primer is not going to be a problem as the moisture content of the air is managed. At certain times of the year usually the winter months the steel will be at that temperature which is called its dew point.
You know when you pick up a piece of metal on a cold damp day and it just feels sweaty and wet. Well, waiting for perfect weeks or months when the work can be carried out are not an option in a country that has difficulty forecasting weather twenty-four hours in advance.
All the previous discussion on surface preparation applies when considering the use of rust preventing waxes. I have discussions with many customers over the phone via email or at the shows we attend about the abilities of certain waxes performance at preventing rust.
And due to the barrier effect it worked to a degree. The rust that forms within a crevice or seam within a hidden cavity can corrode at up to 400 times faster than corrosion on open surfaces, once humidity enters the oxygen starved crevice this rate of corrosion is just about guaranteed the application of a hygroscopic converter to passing this rust and seal it in a latex layer is something I prefer to do... Whatever way you choose to go I'll offer the pro's of using a rust converter within cavities and let you decide. The downside is that Fe-123 has a lot of heavy zinc phosphate solids that are hard to atomize via a cavity injection probe.
This can be used with the Cordovan system or any Wax based rust proofing products on the market. The delivery method for injecting cavities needs to be able to atomize the product sufficiently to allow it to penetrate.
ATM cavity wax left next to a radiator or in the airing cupboard overnight will give you a superb penetrating wax even on the coldest winter day the extra thinning for cavities should be used for extra penetration into tight seams. Pour the wax neat into the Pro-wax injection gun and off you go, pushing the probe fully into the cavity squeeze the trigger/strong and draw it slowly back towards you.
That's why we use a wax that flows from the tin without thinning that can be atomized and sprayed into a cavity and sets up as it dries into a flexible waxy film this then forms the barrier protection against rust we have already discussed in previous paragraphs. By all means pay attention to the salt spray test that some manufacturers use as a selling point, it is definitely relevant when dealing with under body waxes.
ASTM's wax and was a significant for us choosing this formula, it also has excellent ATM salt fog protection as well, so all in all, great penetration and protection and no thinning required so the high film thickness offers an effective barrier against rust. This forms a dry self healing film and gives a traditional black satin color to the vehicle underside.
Lanolin naturally forms a hermetically sealed surface that will not allow air or water pass, by using the Cordovan penetrator primer you are able to get right into the steels pores removing any trace of moisture before applying an injected coat of Cordovan Active cavity wax. If you want you can just buy one product the Dustbuster Cordovan Base, this product can be used neat as a rust proofing wire grease in a marine environment or thinned with its own safety solvent Cordovan Turbo.
This make the application of Dustbuster Cordovan the most versatile rust proofing product around. Poor injection equipment and particularly finger operated pumps will not atomize the wax sufficiently and you will get uncoated spots (holidays) within the coating.
You will get similar results using a wax that does not flow or is not easily atomized, or by using poor injection equipment.