It seals rust in and stops it from spreading while acting as either a primer or base coat. One medium coat usually covers light surface rust.
Start by wire wheeling or mechanically removing any loose rust and apply 2-3 medium coats to get complete penetration into the rust. It can be used to quickly seal bare metal in a pinch to avoid flash rusting as well.
I absolutely prefer to use it as a base under rubberized undercoating for peace of mind. In hidden, boxed or hard-to-reach areas– Rustencapsulator needs some basic prep before application (wire brush loose rust and degrease with PRE™).
It also needs complete coverage to properly stop the rust and it can be tough to get it to cover properly on an area that hasn’t been prepared completely. For hidden, boxed and hard-to-reach areas, we suggest our Internal Frame Coating.
However, unlike encapsulated, it doesn’t have room for error when it comes to using it on the incorrect surfaces. This would be scaly rust that has begun pitting the surface and has covered all the metal.
We still suggest knocking off the loose, flaking rust using a wire brush or wheel before applying the product. The goal is for the entire surface that is rusted to turn a purplish-black once the converter has finished curing.
This product needs 100 percent rust present for it to work. This means it won’t work completely on areas that are a mix of rust and bare metal, or a mix of original paint and rust.
If you’re trying to treat small rust spots that have paint surrounding them (that we assume you don’t want to damage) you can use Fast Etch to saturate the area and get into those small rust spots. Painted or coated surfaces– This product won’t work on bare metal areas to protect or prevent them from rusting.
If applied to areas that are painted or used to coat for prevention, the rust converter won’t fully cure, and the surface will stay sticky. Feel free to drop us a comment if you’d like to see a Buyer’s Guide for any other product.
Sure, in a perfect world we would all start with having the individual components of our project car acid dipped and media blasted down to the bare metal again. But, none of us live in a perfect world. The best we can do in most cases is get the car clean and dry, though still rusty, and proceed with chemical solutions.
When applied over actual rust it reacts with it, converting it into a hard black polymeric printable material. The converter however is not UV stable, and is not meant to be a top coat, it’s more like a printable primer.
The best thing to apply though, to really guard against rust coming back, is the Eastwood RustEncapsulator. For use around the shop, house or farm you can spray it directly and not even bother with a top coat of paint.
Because of this Eastwood offers it in a variety of popular colors like red, white, gray, silver, black and safety yellow, as well as a clear coat. For restoring the underside, chassis and Underwood areas or your project, we offer it in a regular black, and an even tougher rubberized Encapsulated version.
The encapsulated flows into hard to reach spots, penetrates deep into the rust, and even fills in minor pinholes and surface imperfections. The RustEncapsulator should be the last step in your rust neutralization/removal work before starting with primer, paint and the rest of the finishing process.
Previous Roadworthy 1965 AMC Rambler ~ Impound Lot Revival Eastwood RustEncapsulator has been tested by an independent lab to be the most effective protection from rust yet.
Tested against well-known brands, the Eastwood RustEncapsulator has proven to be superior in sunlight resistance, preventing rust creep, and overall durability. (16017 Z P) is actually superior for applying into blind areas such as box sections where little or no surface prep can be done.
The best product to coat inside box sections is the Heavy Duty Anti- Rust (16017ZP). This waxy, oily product flows into pinch welds & through rust to seal surface from contact with moisture & air, but cannot be painted over so is only suitable for inside box sections that don't show.
In places where little or no surface prep can be done, our Heavy-Duty Anti- Rust (16017ZP) is actually a better choice for applying into blind areas such as box sections. Eastwood RustEncapsulator is ideal for parts on project cars that have started to rust, but would be very difficult to replace or fabricate.
If you thought it was good before, wait until you try the newest version of our great anti- rust spray. The latest formulation is strongly heat-resistant to handle the high operating temperatures of a vehicle and will cure quickly so you can resume your project work.
When tested against well-known brands, Eastwood RustEncapsulator has proven to be superior in resisting sunlight, preventing rust creep and promoting overall durability. Eastwood's 100 percent customer satisfaction guarantee means you can shop with confidence every time you visit.
SUPERIOR corrosion resistance to “hardware store rust paints” for greater durability (tested to 500 hours in a salt-spray chamber) Epoxy-fortified for better adhesion and topcoat compatibility Penetrates deeper to prevent rust from spreading or forming, even in hard-to-reach areas Cures faster, and the low-VOC formula is acceptable in California 15 oz. Shake can for at least 2 minutes once the mixing ball starts to rattle.
(A) Technically, yes, but this application isn't recommended because RustEncapsulator requires surface to be free of grease, oil, and loose rust. These products require minimal prep and will creep into seams and pinch welds.
Simply wire brush any loose rust, wipe with PRE painting prep to clean the surface and apply. Eastwood RustEncapsulator has proven to be superior in UV resistance, preventing rust creep, and overall durability.
Eastwood RustEncapsulator has been tested by an independent lab to be one of the most effective rust -preventive products yet. RustEncapsulator is a great primer for floor pans and other under body parts.
It fills tiny pin-holes and surface irregularities, and is compatible with lacquer, enamel and urethane topcoats (including Eastwood Chassis Black). If you’re the owner of any valuable item made of metal, you know that rust is the enemy.
This means heavily rusted areas are turned into a protective coating. All you need to do is dust off loose rust and clean soiled areas before application.
Rather, they’re used to converting rust to an inert compound that forms a barrier layer against corrosion. Containing a complex organic ch elate base and epoxy resin , the RC900 is free of lead, zinc, and chromium.
Rust converters are usually applied to objects difficult to sandblast, such as cars, trucks, trailers, industrial equipment and machinery, farming equipment, sheet metal, and the exteriors of storage tanks. They are also used on domestic outdoor fittings and fixtures, like fences, gates, and iron railings.
The National Center for Preservation Technology and Training (NC PTT) explains that rust converters are essential in conservation. They’re used extensively to restore, preserve, and stabilize iron-based items of historical importance, such as museum artifacts and collections, as well as architectural elements and outdoor sculpture.
Its active ingredients, phosphoric acid or tannin acid (or a combination of both) and an organic polymer, convert iron oxide into an inert layer of iron phosphate, which is black. A converter eliminates the need to sandblast rust, so less time and energy is involved in the process.
As equipment and vehicles age, they need regular rustproofing as protection from corrosion. Vulnerable automotive parts that need rust converters include the undercarriage, the wheel wells, and the area around the windshield or bumper.
Before applying a converter, use a wire brush or wheel to slough off flaking rust from the area to be protected (rather than sealing it in), then clean and degrease it so that any contaminants present won’t interfere with the conversion of iron oxide. Then apply an under body wax (on the undercarriage of a vehicle, for example) for long-term rust prevention.
It is a product that speeds up the process of removing rust from a metal surface. Once the rust has disappeared, a stable surface is now ready for priming and painting.
There is no chemical process involved, just the application of the rust remover to the affected area. Make sure that all traces of rust are removed before applying a rustproofing under body or cavity wax.
If you don’t want to use chemical solutions to remove rust, I suggest household items like Coca-Cola, white vinegar, potatoes, baking soda, and lemon juice. Use steel wool, sandpaper, or crumpled tin foil as scrubbing tools.
It flows into hard-to-reach areas, penetrates deep into the rust, and fills in pinholes and surface imperfections. It is the last step in the rust neutralization/removal work before starting with primer, paint, and the rest of the finishing process.
But if equipment, vehicles, or fixtures are exposed to oxygen and the elements afterward, rust is unavoidable. A cheating agent is a substance whose molecules can form several bonds to a single metal ion.
Epoxies are thermoses (set permanently when heated) plastics made by the reaction of two or more industrial chemical compounds. Epoxy resins are used in a wide array of consumer and industrial applications because of their toughness, strong adhesion, chemical resistance, and other specialized properties.